Elsa Schiaparelli. Surrealism in Fashion of 30-ies

By the beginning of 1920 in France, formed a new aesthetic for, called surrealism. This trend should lead to upliftment, erase the boundaries between dream and reality. Surrealist ideas were picked up by many unique personalities, among them Andre Breton, Salvador Dali, Ernst Fuchs, Jean Cocteau and other followers of the new trend experienced the desire to all irrational, non-standard, not established norms. Surreal ideas were reflected in painting, in film, in literature. The founder of the surrealist trends in the fashion world was an Italian aristocrat Elsa Schiaparelli

In the history of fashion of the 20 th century, perhaps no more vivid and original figures, as Elsa Schiaparelli. Unfortunately, in our time its name is mentioned, mostly when smb write and talk about another legendary person - Coco Chanel. Meanwhile, many historians believe, Schiaparelli impact on contemporary fashion is much more than the works of the great Gabriel, and in the 30 years she was the most notable and unusual master of the fashion world.
For the first time talented Elsa attracted attention in the late 20-ies.

Works of a little-known woman were very unusual, and many of them cause public shock. Early models Schiaparelli is a collection of sweaters, which is used by African motifs, the drawings of sailor tattoos, the idea of the work of artists-Cubists. At fashionable sweaters adorned with snakes, anchors, lobsters, unusual ornaments, the fashion world first saw the picture "fish spine". Distinctive feature of Italian woman was that her new life's passion, searching, feeling immediately be reflected in her work. For example, a fashion aviation gave rise to models that became the basis of style "pilot". Elsa Schiaparelli thought that just comfortable things of little interest to the public, so their models it would stand out from the homogeneous mass fashion. She introduced new ideas: a divided skirt (the prototype of the modern short), separate flesh-colored bathing suit, jewelry, instead of gem. Trendy, innovative things were shocking, but attracted customers to stores Elzy.

In the early 30-ies Schiaparelli experimenting with the creation of evening dresses. And once again enjoy the success of its model. Particularly enthusiastic emotions fashion world met her long dress of black crepe sheath, which emphasized the elegance of a white jacket and a scarf thrown over his back. Encouraged by the success of Italian opens one of the first boutiques in the heart of Paris.


When she was creating her collections, Elsa collaborated with the brilliant writers, artists, photographers. For example, a drawing by Jean Cocteau created a jacket with "embracing arms" and the famous dress-blende with embroidery, in which were two female profile form vase with flowers. Jean Hugo has invented for the Italian buttons in the form of small sculptures. And Louis Aragon and Elsa Triolet Elsa gathered for a necklace of aspirin tablets. But the greatest impact in the fashion world had a long friendship and cooperation Elsa Schiaparelli with Salvador Dali. A great artist invented for an Italian handbag in a phone in his sketches were created famous dress with lobster and surrounded by leaves of parsley, a jacket with pockets in the form of drawers, and the main decoration boutique Schiaparelli - pink sofa in the form of lips actress Mae West. Dali inspired Elsa on the establishment of several unusual accessories —bags in the form of phone, apple or a balloon, gloves with pockets for matches or with fake nails, hats as worn shoes, ink, or lamb chops.

In 1935, Elsa Schiaparelli interested in expressing the theme of optical illusions and hallucinations in the form of a cut and the figure clothing. Gifted Kuyure creates a jacket with a broad, square shoulders, which entered into fashion thanks to Marlene Dietrich, and dress with the image of tears, the figure which could be seen only from a distance or at a certain angle. When Schiaparelli wore this dress, a mirage, the public was in some perplexity, since, having seen and taken interest in an unusual pattern from a distance, people could not find him near.

In 1936, one of the events of the fashion was the presentation of the new, which later became a brand name Schiaparelli, color "Shocking pink". Perhaps it may seem strange today, but for the 30-ies, this color was more than just unusual. It was really shocked. In a trendy color was produced everything: from shoes and hats to lipstick and perfume.


the 30-ies was remembered as one of the main intrigue in the world of fashion - the rivalry between Elsa Schiaparelli and Gabrielle Chanel. It was real, brilliant "confrontation" of two women, two prominent fashion designers, the origins of which were hidden in the diametrical opposite of their personalities. The only thing that united them - this is innovation. Innovation in the field of fashion.
Schiaparelli in her works was a proponent of surrealism. Chanel, by contrast, staked on the classics. Elsa tried to dress to emphasize strength, personality, while Gabriel emphasized the beauty of the body. Madame Coco maintained consistency throughout the style, but for their models preferred to use tissue modest not bright color without decoration. Elsa also went to the provocation, uses luxurious materials and designs, shocked the fashion audience unimaginable decor. If Chanel created classic suits with gold buttons, a Schiaparelli dress-sewing saris, invent fancy buttons in the form of coins, necklaces with plastic insects and strange applications in the form of animals.
Competition for the main crown of designer sometimes went beyond the catwalk. So, if you believe the stories, at a reception courtesy of Coco Chanel sat his rival at the just painted a chair, noting that the appearance of Elza it will only benefit because of the intensity and diversity of her wardrobe. Schiaparelli was no less restrained in their actions and often expressed their feelings caricature Coco on their new masterpieces. Added a zest to their relationship that fact that both Gabriel and Elsa worked and been friends with the same people.


It is hard to say who rightfully belonged to the palm of main lawgiver in Fashion of 30-ies. Many believe that at that time in the fashion world was a dual power. But it seems to me that the 30-ies were still under the influence of Schiaparelli. It was her preferred dress Hollywood stars. It was her way with emphasis on the feminine form being pressed become a classic straight silhouette manly "waiter", sponsored by Coco. It was influenced by Italian fashion designer in the collections of Chanel appeared before that did not recognize her bright colors. If Chanel Fashion can be considered a classic 30-ies, that Schiaparelli was her artist and a dreamer.
As it often happens in the world of high fashion, Elsa could not long hold on the Olympus of Fame and was forced to cede trends of modern times, which required a more utilitarian and versatile clothing. In the new era were already new heroes: Coco Chanel, Christian Dior.

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